A table saw is an excellent piece of equipment that is easy to use and saves effort or time. However, the use of a table saw is to cut the boards, easily make short angle cuts called crosscuts, and long vertical cuts called rips. If you follow the correct way, have the safety equipment, and correctly set up your saw, you can make precise and accurate cuts using your table saw. This article includes different steps on how to use a table saw?
Basics Table Saw
Which run between 300$ for the standard model to 800$ for the contractor-quality version, are sold the size of blades they accommodate. The ten sizes are standard and best for carpentry and woodwork tasks. You will find various table saws that are handy for small work and 12 best to create deeper cuts on thicker material.
The saw parts include:
- Tabletop at least 3×3 with extensions for brands. Typically the table made from cast steel or cast aluminum rests on a stand or metal cabinet.
- Various types of table saws are considered power tools. But portable saws with foldable legs for easier moving are available.
- A miter gauge that assists you in making crosscuts
- Rip fence guide bar positioned parallel to the saw blade
- Blade guards that enhance the blade while it is cutting offer a measure of protection if your fingers get more close to the blade
- You may have additional accessories, depending on the saw you select, such as table extensions or rollers, to support long-length vacuum attachments, wood, or clamps.
- Push stick allows you to feed material through the saw without your fingers get closer to the blade
Various weekends warriors and professionals have suffered many injuries for not knowing how to use a table saw. If not correctly handled, the material being cut can quickly get in a bid and kicked back, throwing materials at a high velocity toward them or jerking them violently and pulling their fingers towards blades. However, to lessen the risks of kickback:
- Don’t start it while the materials you are cutting is touching the blade
- When making rip cuts, must use the rip fence
- Use miter gauge, not the rip fence, for crosscuts
- Try to keep materials flat against the blade during cuts.
Additionally, the specific safety observances to prevent kickback, take the time to read the manufacturer’s safety provisions and be sure to wear ear protection and goggles while using a saw. Importantly, remember to unplug the saw before adjust or align the blade, and never move safety guards that come with the saw.
With various accessories such as jigs, stops, clamps, you can easily make specialty cuts as compound angles, dado cuts, and rabbet joints-yet woodworkers rely on the table saw for two different cuts. Crosscutting applies to cut materials to a specific length, and ripping the everyday use of saw, involves cutting materials to width. However, you will find step-by-step instructions for using a table saw to make common cuts.
How to crosscut?
It is essential t to remember not to use the rip fence as a guide when making crosscuts. The rip fence stabilizes long lengths, but crosscuts are made on reasonably narrow material-cutting in half or taking off the board’s end. A miter gauge allows a guide fence to stabilize the bar and material that fits into one of the table’s deep grooves.
When the bar is correctly fitted into a groove, the miter gauge slides from front to back of the saw so you can control cuts. Sit features a protector such as a guide that adjusts the knob and select the correct angle before retightening the knob.
However, the miter gauge that comes with a table saw is little on the lightweight side. To do a lot of crosscutting, invest in an after-market miter gauge that substantial. Alternately, you can use a miter sled. However, here are some steps to explain crosscut.
- Step#1: Unplug the saw and insert a crosscut blade into the table saw arbor as described in the rip step.
- Step#2: Adjust the protector on the miter gauge to make an either mitered or straight angled crosscut
- Step#3: Align and position the material along the front edge of the miter gauge, using clamps if required to secure it in place
- Step#4: Plug the saw and turn it on but never let wood touch the blade until it spins at full speed.
- Step#5: Slide the miter gauge and material you are cutting slowly forward and carefully through the moving blade
- Step#6: Turn the blade saw off before retrieving cut-off parts of the material near the blade.
Ripping is the easiest and simplest cut to make, and a table saw that adjusts to the width of the desired cut and serves as a guide to control material while cutting. Here are some steps that explain the ripping process entirely.
Unplug the saw and fit a rip blade, which is a bet for materials you are cutting into the blade arbor on top of the blade. Carefully adjust the blade height so the top of the blade rises no more ¼ above the thickness of the material you are cutting. If you rip a piece of wood ½ plywood, you should set the blade no higher than ¾ above the laptop.
For this, use the arbor nut wrench that comes with a saw to loosen the arbor nut and position the rip bade with teeth facing the saw’s front. A blade of the table saw spins towards you, from top downward, so the sharp blades face the front of the saw. Tighten the arbor nut snugly.
Carefully position the rip by releasing a locking lever on the front of the fence, locking the fence into place, and sliding it, so it’s inner edge matches the desired width of cut. The table saw has a ruler on the front side to help position the fence but don’t depend solely on a ruler for perfect cuts.
Use a precision tape measure to measure the distance from the fence to the closest edge of the table saw blade tooth: sawtooth alternate, one toward the right and left. You will account for the amount of wood blade will cut away by measuring to the closest edge.
In this step, plug the table saw and place the material to be cut on the table, aligned with the rip fence, but never allow it to touch the blade until you have turned on the saw and the blade reaches full speed. If material makes contact with a blade before the blade reaches cutting speed, it’s a sure recipe for a kickback.
Guide material slowly along the rip fence with both hands, whichever is essential to control the material, keep it flat along the tabletop and aligned with a fence. When ripping large, thick boars, you will want to use your hands to guide the materials at the start and then switch to the single hand as the cut nears completion.
If the material is extended and long beyond the back of the table, either use table extension or have a helper support it as you cut to keep material flat at all times. Never let go of material and walk around the back of the saw, which causes the material to lift off the saw table, increasing the kickback risk.
In the end, use a push stick when required to keep your fingers away from moving the blade. A push stick is specially designed to guide material when you make narrow rips that would put your finger in few inches of blade.